Mori Kei : A New Love

I watched Honey and Clover dorama once again  last time. My eyes were then on Hagu’s outfit. It’s so adorable. The style looks so messy but very comforting. I looked in the internet and it’s mori style. I remember i have read about that mori means forest, and the outfit is about forest-style fashion, yet, I hadn’t paid attention until I watched again Honey and Clover. I also found about the guide of Mori-kei fashion (and life). After reading it, I googled the mori style clothes. I printed them, too, and put it on my sewing room wall so i could remember well the style. The style is ‘totally’ new to me (my feel). It’s not sexy. It’s not ‘cute’. The cuteness is totally different from what I have always done. After some reading and watching, I tried designing some ‘simple’ mori kei clothes and then sew it for my doll. It’s not easy, I must be very careful as using different other than guidance color will create a non mori style feel. Using wrong lace will create a different feel.

These are some work in progress pictures.

So, not yet washed, ironed, button added, etc etc. I totally hate to explain this but some people really don’t know what the WIP is and throw harsh and stupid comments.

The robe is slightly ‘stiff’ because I used lining in purpose. The green one is a linen and the lining is a thin interfacing. I want to give a different color from main fabric lining because I want the lining to be seen as well as give a feel of ‘flowing’ to the whole colours of the other outfit. From what I have watched, mori kei robes were mostly  from light fabric and very ‘flowing’. So, it may be different feel we have when see the robe here.

 

I even did a short r&d for this skirt. I locked the fibre using kind of stitch in my sewing machine. it locked very well (^_^)d. It’s not the basic zigzag stitches by the way. Try other stitches that looks like arrow or else on your machine.

I used french-seam on the fraying-skirt part. As for the dusty-pink skirt, i used serge technique for finishing.

 

 

 

This is the first mori style. I used a stretched textured fabric for the robe. It’s challenging too. I didn’t use lining.

I also made another robe but didn’t take the picture. It used cotton with lining so how the look-feel looked like the green linen robe above which was not too flowing and a bit stiff. It is a bit stiff because it’s doll size. The fabrics themselves are actually thin ones.

 

I think, i still want to do something with the blouse lace. It’s an overlapped on the front but somehow not quite seen. Not yet get a good and fixed idea until now. I might also leave it as it is.

I gathered the lace long time ago using special  sewing feet. I’m glad that the result doesn’t have too high density. If it does, the bear pattern would be seen

I sew the leaf on the skirt using sewing machine, following the ‘bone’ shape of the leaf. It’s quite challenging. The fabric was better than I thought. I thought it would be a messy sewing but not. The back/wrong side is good, too. I used burning/hot knife technique on this skirt.

I’m still influenced by my sewing style that is in-order, balance, ‘neat’ while in mori kei, it’s totally different. So, sometimes, it’s already ok but I still have that feel to fix here and there and add something while actually it might not be needed after all. Putting pictures on the wall is quite helpful to keep reminding myself on track.

I still call my ‘current’ mori kei sewing is ‘pure’ style. In the future, i might combine mori kei with my own style.

 

Finished: Trial 1

imageimage

i really still have to search  suitable fabric for the shirt. i am washing it now. i will be processing it with softener afterwards. I will try rayon next time.

This is r&d for both pants and this style at the same time. i was working on volks pants and this style at the same time. so i just made it as i could achieve 2 goals at the same time.

 

 

 

Shirt-Around-Waist Pants

image image

because i was too lazy to make two pants, I made 1 pants but put the shirt on in different way. That’s why you see left and right side are different. It’s not a mistake. It’s intended. Personally, I like the left picture. It’s more natural. When I wrap my shirt around waist, it is like that.

 

image

When wrapping, i pull up the back of the shirt. As you see, it look ‘folded’ inside. It’s because i pull up the shirt. Somehow, it looks more natural dan if i just let the shirt pulled down. It looks too tight on the hips.

Pattern technique:

You have to know how to make shirt and pants. I won’t give you any pattern of it as it’s BASIC sewing. You can find it anywhere in google or buy it from simplicity or purchase burda sewing magazine.

If you have known the technique, here I just want to share where to begin with.

I didn’t use the collar. I thought about it but it’s not necessary even if i want to make it look close to as if the real shirt is wrapped around pants/waist.

I start the pattern from the lower shoulder ‘line’.

The arm sleeves are FULLY made. and sew to the bodice like usually we do when sewing shirt. In this case, that lower shoulder back and front must be ‘a bit’ sew so the sleeve can be sewn on.

After that,  arrange the ‘line’ of lower shoulder back to the front on the pants waist and sew it on.

I actually serge the shirt. It’s difficult to explain how I do it even if I show the pic. My suggestion is, just serge it as you usually do, and you’ll find  a way how to do it next (aka sewing to the waist) naturally. It’s actually easy but a bit ‘confusing’ when doing serge on the sleeves part. Yet, as I said, just do it as you usually do and the rest will come naturally. It’s OK though if you don’t want to serge. Here, i just want to say that it’s POSSIBLE to serge.

This pants is kind of trend but not too hits. My friend asked me to make one. She gave me an example picture which the placement of the front shirt on the waist is like the right picture. She actually gave me not too clear picture. The focus of of the camera is ok but the pattern of the pants is kinda confusing and makes me hard to read how the maker sew the pants. So, I just figured out myself about the pattern. All I want is the shirt can be natural look when it’s wrapped around the waist.

My problem now is finding the right fabric. I thought this shirt fabric is thin enough. It may be thin but how it falls is stiff! I’m still going to finish this project because I’ve been thinking of using softener to tame the fabric. Checker fabric for making shirt like this do not have many option in terms of kind of fabrics.

Stretch Fabric Learning

WIP-Stretch Fabric Learning

fabric: jersey stretch

needle: special for stretch fabric #9

This is my second trial. The hand part is bulky because i used interfacing on my lining and the lining covered the bodice’s hand holes. May be for next learning, I should use thinner interfacing. I used common/standard interfacing for this.

I didn’t serge the edge. It may ruin the shape and elasticity. It’s ok for not serging it. My purpose for this learning is to sew stretch fabric for simple shape of clothes as well as learning the finishing technique for this kind of neckline.

Using special needle for stretch fabric is really helpful. I would try this first before using special sewing feet. If it’s sufficient, then it’s ok. I didn’t use special stitch for this as this is for doll. It may not be able to be applied to human clothes sewing. It’s also unable to apply on doll projects like stockings and socks.

 

Bra R&D Continued

-________- …. i didn’t mean to but i was curious. So, i made another derivation from pattern version 5. I called it Bra version 5-c. -____- . I think, bra R&D has the most numbers of version after asleep eidolon’s pants R&D. I did pants until 5 version too, I think but no such a b c . (^O^)”’.

I plan to stop for a while until bra version 5-c.

One thing I realize after making this version. Big bust tend to suit with ‘low’ shape of bra. I mean, they will look good if the bra doesn’t cover a ‘whole’ bust. Leave out the ‘skin’ and ‘shape’ to show. Perhaps, why my older or first bra versions looked a bit ‘odd’ and ‘conventional’, it was because I made it to cover the ‘bust-skin’ and ‘shape’.

R&D is (temporarily) finished

20160320_191737.jpg

Finally, arrived at 3 shapes of bra. From here, i will develop more. At least, my theory is correct (and ‘confirmed’ after I read http://mydollyadventures.blogspot.com/2014/02/making-of-doll-bra.html#.Vu2Tz0vHeHp ).

Actually, I always know that doll is resin and human is ‘flesh, thus, the pattern or clothes making sometimes is different but somehow, i forgot that when making bra. I use push up bra or any other modern (but not sport/classic) bra. The bra shapes my bust but in doll bra making, the resin is hard and thus, I don’t need bra to shape the doll’s bust. All I need is to make a bra that looks like it’s shaping the bust (You may want to read the link I gave above. The author seems to have quite the same theory. I feel confident about my theory though after reading that…haha).

What I do first after thinking about theory is to notice more carefully and detail about how bra hang on human body (I wear it every day but I don’t really notice it). I googled a lot of bra picture (as well as look at mine…haha). I noticed how it shaped the bust and how it ‘should’ hang on human body. From there, I revised my previous pattern.

First to notice is on the bottom part (bottom stripe): it should fall slightly under the bust (bottom bust). We can make it wide or not.

Second to that is where the bottom part of the cup should ‘fall’ on the bust. Yes, it can fall on the bottom-bust line too but since I want to make a ‘push-up’ effect, I raised the bottom part a bit. In human bra, we can use rubber as string and belt to push the bra up (by shorten the string); the bust will adjust.  While in doll clothes, even if we use belt, the bust won’t adjust as it’s resin and hard. In this case, we raised the bottom part of the cup to create effect AS IF the bust is ‘raised’ . The length of the string must be correct for the bra to fall on the bust correctly. The author of the link above use rubber lace. It’s auto adjusting then.

So, yes, the pattern revision is to create effect. It was ok but the effect didn’t really show.

Making this bra is ‘simple’ but not simple. Do not underestimate the size and the shape. As the author of the link said, she did math. So did I. Some other people use ‘drapery’ technique by wrapping their doll with papers and then make bra based on that. It can create good accuracy but if I can’t rely it as if I cut it wrong or still not satisfied, I must repeat it over and over again and it’s too fuzzy. I have twins toddler with syndrome. So, that way isn’t my option.

About finishing: I use lining for my doll bra. I put interfacing too on the lining as the lining is thin. Why I didn’t use thicker lining? Because interfacing will give a shape, I need thin lining so it won’t be too bulky if I apply interfacing on it. Interfacing also protects from fraying. Thicker fabrics are still able to fray. If I use interfacing, it can be too bulky.

PS: Sorry i didn’t put the bra on my doll. I want to make it with a better fabric and neater sewing. I havent made the pants. I want to take a picture with proper sewing project

Suede Fabric

Been working with this fabric lately. I’m tired. I think, this fabric i have has stretch nature a little bit. I feel, the shape of the clothes didn’t come out as expected. It changed somehow. And when the shape didn’t come out well,  so did the fitting! I don’t know, why it looks weird while i was quite sure, it was supposed to be alright and fit well. 

I’m thinking to use interfacing to ‘control’ the stretch nature a little bit.

 

The ‘Key’ in Yukata Project

after sewing ‘lots’ of yukata, i just realized few minutes ago that (one of) the key is on the length. The length must be right so the ‘excess’ on the waist part to be covered by obi won’t leave too much wrinkles. That’s of course, besides the width of the yukata; it is important, too, but i think, the length is same important as the width. I made yukata for about 60cm doll but i made the ‘length’ of yukata 2cm (or more) more than that. I couldn’t understand, why the wrinkles were still a lot while the i’d reduced the width. I then analyzed a bit and got an idea to shorten the length. voila! Wayyyy better. The yukata becomes more manageable easier too.

These are before i cut the length

FB_IMG_142630084281220150314_085842

dont mind abt the obi. hahaha. i just used whatever stripes around my working room. the left batik one is kind of cotton fabric. i think it is parish or rayon. not really thick rayon but thin. i like the fall on the body.

the right one is crepe. it is amazing! this fabric falls better on bjd than satin, chiffon, and thinner satin.

i cant stand to serge the seam though it was an r&d project. XD

Yukata-Back To Basic (Human Yukata)

yukata

 

I have the book but i left it in my teacher’s house. So, i printed from internet. Anyway, after 3rd-not-so-satisfying patterns, i decided to use this pattern. I actually ‘learned’ about it but then since it was too confusing, i made it myself. And now, i went back to this pattern and tried to understand eventhough still a bit confusing. Result? With a bit different understanding, i found it that this is the BEST so far.

Yet

I’m also waiting for my purchased yukata. I want to know myself how a good-made-doll-yukata looks on my doll. I also want to know how they did the finishing, so if i want to make and sell yukata, my handmade quality will not be too faaaaar behind. (^O^)””’…

YoSD Casual Clothes Project

20140815_103722 20140815_103814

 

I never made yosd clothes ‘seriously’ before. I just made it. Looked ok. and that’s it.

This time, i take it a little bit more seriously in a more simple project. I make long pants for yosd and make sure the fitting is ok. I didn’t mean to make a ‘sexy’ very fit pants. I just want a casual pants, so the yosd will look as ‘young’ sd or as a kid. If you think making this kind of not-too-fit clothes is simple, not for me. It’s not an easy project actually. In my head, clothes must be fit and that thought drives my hand to create pattern. I rarely make a pattern that is a little bit loose (or not too fit). YET. I must say, i’m proud of myself that I managed to make it for this project only in ONE trial. Hahaha…I’m so happy!

The T-shirt is something i want to try as well. I didn’t serge it since i’m afraid, the fabric can be stretched out too much. Yes, I use stretch cotton fabric. There’re some notes I would like to share here:

1. Using zigzag is the best for hemming when you don’t have special machine to sew fabric like this.

2. I tried a sewing feet that was said for sewing this kind of fabric but I don’t feel it’s great in terms of sewing small curves which the doll clothes have.

3. There’s a special needle for that but since the needle is too expensive, i didn’t use it. (^o^)”’. Not, for this one.

4. I didn’t serge it but I trim it with zig-zag scissor.

5. Set the feet pressure not too high so the fabric can pass the feet more smoothly without being too much stretched out.

It’s a bit tricky when sewing this kind of fabric. Trial and error can happen. I did it in 1-2 trials. The good thing about using this fabric is, (may be) we don’t have to make the pattern as a strict good-fit one. It’s ok a bit too small or tight as the fabric will adjust itself to the body due to it’s stretch nature. But again…it’s own preference of how we want the t-shirt look like on the body, YET, in my personal opinion, I don’t take it too ‘strict’ when making the T-shirt pattern. (^_^)d.