This is the result. Must take off the faceplate when wearing this clothes on. I wonder, why it’s short? hahahaha. It’s always like that. Not that I didn’t want to make it longer but seems like it is always like that. I mean, my mind drives the result. I like sexy and cute clothes and somehow, it is always like that though I didn’t mean to. I wanted this dress a bit longer but it ends up like this. If i ever re-measured and made it longer, I believe, i might not like the result and thought, shorter is better. (^0^)”’. It’s perfect yet unexpectedly shorter than expected. Oh, well. I must satisfy myself and stop complaining.
For technical notes, please check out previous post. Thank you
fabric: jersey stretch
needle: special for stretch fabric #9
This is my second trial. The hand part is bulky because i used interfacing on my lining and the lining covered the bodice’s hand holes. May be for next learning, I should use thinner interfacing. I used common/standard interfacing for this.
I didn’t serge the edge. It may ruin the shape and elasticity. It’s ok for not serging it. My purpose for this learning is to sew stretch fabric for simple shape of clothes as well as learning the finishing technique for this kind of neckline.
Using special needle for stretch fabric is really helpful. I would try this first before using special sewing feet. If it’s sufficient, then it’s ok. I didn’t use special stitch for this as this is for doll. It may not be able to be applied to human clothes sewing. It’s also unable to apply on doll projects like stockings and socks.
Finally, arrived at 3 shapes of bra. From here, i will develop more. At least, my theory is correct (and ‘confirmed’ after I read http://mydollyadventures.blogspot.com/2014/02/making-of-doll-bra.html#.Vu2Tz0vHeHp ).
Actually, I always know that doll is resin and human is ‘flesh, thus, the pattern or clothes making sometimes is different but somehow, i forgot that when making bra. I use push up bra or any other modern (but not sport/classic) bra. The bra shapes my bust but in doll bra making, the resin is hard and thus, I don’t need bra to shape the doll’s bust. All I need is to make a bra that looks like it’s shaping the bust (You may want to read the link I gave above. The author seems to have quite the same theory. I feel confident about my theory though after reading that…haha).
What I do first after thinking about theory is to notice more carefully and detail about how bra hang on human body (I wear it every day but I don’t really notice it). I googled a lot of bra picture (as well as look at mine…haha). I noticed how it shaped the bust and how it ‘should’ hang on human body. From there, I revised my previous pattern.
First to notice is on the bottom part (bottom stripe): it should fall slightly under the bust (bottom bust). We can make it wide or not.
Second to that is where the bottom part of the cup should ‘fall’ on the bust. Yes, it can fall on the bottom-bust line too but since I want to make a ‘push-up’ effect, I raised the bottom part a bit. In human bra, we can use rubber as string and belt to push the bra up (by shorten the string); the bust will adjust. While in doll clothes, even if we use belt, the bust won’t adjust as it’s resin and hard. In this case, we raised the bottom part of the cup to create effect AS IF the bust is ‘raised’ . The length of the string must be correct for the bra to fall on the bust correctly. The author of the link above use rubber lace. It’s auto adjusting then.
So, yes, the pattern revision is to create effect. It was ok but the effect didn’t really show.
Making this bra is ‘simple’ but not simple. Do not underestimate the size and the shape. As the author of the link said, she did math. So did I. Some other people use ‘drapery’ technique by wrapping their doll with papers and then make bra based on that. It can create good accuracy but if I can’t rely it as if I cut it wrong or still not satisfied, I must repeat it over and over again and it’s too fuzzy. I have twins toddler with syndrome. So, that way isn’t my option.
About finishing: I use lining for my doll bra. I put interfacing too on the lining as the lining is thin. Why I didn’t use thicker lining? Because interfacing will give a shape, I need thin lining so it won’t be too bulky if I apply interfacing on it. Interfacing also protects from fraying. Thicker fabrics are still able to fray. If I use interfacing, it can be too bulky.
PS: Sorry i didn’t put the bra on my doll. I want to make it with a better fabric and neater sewing. I havent made the pants. I want to take a picture with proper sewing project
one thing that my teacher didn’t teach me about balloon skirt ‘concept’ (and some other balloon skirts out there i found ) is that balloon means that this skirt must be filled with something so it looks filled or bubble, or blow from inside.
What I used is making inner skirt with ruffle lace (you can use tulle) inside.
1. the bottom: sew ruffled lace 2 layers close each other so it will be stronger to hold the bottom part of the skirt and give the ‘air’ effect on the bottom.
2. middle: no need to sew closely between layers.
3. top: sew ruffled lace 2 layers closed each other so the ballon effect is started at the top of the skirt.
I have the book but i left it in my teacher’s house. So, i printed from internet. Anyway, after 3rd-not-so-satisfying patterns, i decided to use this pattern. I actually ‘learned’ about it but then since it was too confusing, i made it myself. And now, i went back to this pattern and tried to understand eventhough still a bit confusing. Result? With a bit different understanding, i found it that this is the BEST so far.
I’m also waiting for my purchased yukata. I want to know myself how a good-made-doll-yukata looks on my doll. I also want to know how they did the finishing, so if i want to make and sell yukata, my handmade quality will not be too faaaaar behind. (^O^)””’…