Erasable Pen vs Erasable Spidol

I use erasable pen for sewing doll clothes. It was ok until lately. First when i serge the project with the marking was still there. When i washed it, goodness! It was hard to disappear. Second, today. I used brocade fabric for the clothes. I thought, it would be ok, no problem. All i need was to soak it over night. But today, i found the mark was still there! It is even more difficult to remove. I’m trying special remover now. I used the same pen on cotton. It was ok! .

I think, from now on, i must test the pen even it’s ok on other fabric. I think, for some fabric, i prefer Erasable Spidol though. I think, the ‘water’ is still a lot more than the color liquid. It’s easier to be removed. Oh, there are other kind of erasable/washable marker, a pencil. I think, it’s also easier to be removed. Yet, again, must try it first before trying on a ‘particular’ fabric.

So far, the erasable pen is relatively easy to be removed if i used it on satin-like fabric, cotton, sheer. I haven’t tried it on canvas or medium fabric. I usually prefer spidol over pen when working with thicker fabric.

Crepe Fabric

I tried this fabric lately. This is good. I like the feel and how it falls on doll body. It’s better than chiffon! The edge doesn’t fray easily. I don’t think, i want to serge it when making doll clothes. May be only zigzag shear to make sure it won’t fray at all. Too bad, colors are limited. I wish they are many more colors though. 


Balloon Skirt

balloon skirt


one thing that my teacher didn’t teach me about balloon skirt ‘concept’ (and some other balloon skirts out there i found ) is that balloon means that this skirt must be filled with something so it looks filled or bubble, or blow from inside.

What I used is making inner skirt with ruffle lace (you can use tulle) inside.

1. the bottom: sew ruffled lace 2 layers close each other so it will be stronger to hold the bottom part of the skirt and give the ‘air’ effect on the bottom.

2. middle: no need to sew closely between layers.

3. top: sew ruffled lace 2 layers closed each other so the ballon effect is started at the top of the skirt.


Mystery of Two Pieces (Dress with gathered skirt)

I was wondering why some people made 2 pieces dress (with skirt part is ruffled or gathered). Why not 1 piece? It’s annoying to use it on doll. But since, yesterdays, when i made a dress, i started thinking two pieces dress would be better than one pieces. It may look better on 2 piece rather than 1 piece. The waist part on torso wouldn’t be too bulky. It’s hard to explain because the skirt will be ‘slipped’ under the torso waist. Argument may arise, it is the same. Bulky is still seen. Yet, somehow, I still feel, now, 2 pieces is better than 1 piece.

Another Fabric for Same Design

I tried another fabric for same design today. result? DIFFERENT! May be, it was combo fabric and interfacing. I used not suitable fabric and combined with ‘wrong’ interfacing. Today, I used another cotton fabric. Still thin but not flowing/fall. It’s not easily wrinkle. I also used different interfacing. I used light-stiff interfacing, used for collar. Way better or may be i should say, it’s just normally i used to make.

Good Fabric for Doll? (or No (>3>)””

While ago, i bought a very ‘good’ fabric for doll clothes. At least, i thought SO. The fabric is thin but not sheer, very flowing, color is exactly like i want, and the price is not too expensive. It’s cotton.

I made doll clothes with this fabric 3 times, including latest project. I wasn’t unsure already with this fabric when i worked the first project but i thought, ah, may be coincidence. Yet, on 3rd project, i just O.o. The fabric wasn’t appeared as expected for a gown i made. O.o . It’s EASILY wrinkle! I ironed it again but yet, when i put it on doll body, it was like stretched here and there and caused wrinkle. No, the clothes isn’t too tight. it was even loose when i tried on another body.

Honestly, until now, i’m still unable to guess whether a fabric is good for doll UNTIL i made something with that fabric.


The ‘Key’ in Yukata Project

after sewing ‘lots’ of yukata, i just realized few minutes ago that (one of) the key is on the length. The length must be right so the ‘excess’ on the waist part to be covered by obi won’t leave too much wrinkles. That’s of course, besides the width of the yukata; it is important, too, but i think, the length is same important as the width. I made yukata for about 60cm doll but i made the ‘length’ of yukata 2cm (or more) more than that. I couldn’t understand, why the wrinkles were still a lot while the i’d reduced the width. I then analyzed a bit and got an idea to shorten the length. voila! Wayyyy better. The yukata becomes more manageable easier too.

These are before i cut the length


dont mind abt the obi. hahaha. i just used whatever stripes around my working room. the left batik one is kind of cotton fabric. i think it is parish or rayon. not really thick rayon but thin. i like the fall on the body.

the right one is crepe. it is amazing! this fabric falls better on bjd than satin, chiffon, and thinner satin.

i cant stand to serge the seam though it was an r&d project. XD

Transparent Thread

Transparent thread are made from very thin plastic. I use it sometimes when i want to sew something but I’m not sure what color to use.

The example case is when i want to sew white pearl on black ribbon. If i used black thread, it will be visible on white pearl though a bit. If I used white thread, it will be visible on black ribbon though a bit. Using transparent thread is a good option in this case.

Another example, i saw some ribbons have beads sewn on to. The thread used is transparent. It won’t ‘ruin’  the color of the beads as well as the ribbon itself.

Yukata Project

I’m working on Yukata right now. Just found that a fabric at home isn’t suitable for yukata.  I wonder if local common fabric will be more suitable.

Been trying 2 patterns. Not satisfied. I then buy yukata and kimono for reference. I want to see how the pro’s work looks on my dolls. From the pic, it looks not far different from what I’ve done so far but i’m not satisfied until i see their yukata myself, put it on my doll, and see how it looks.

YoSD Casual Clothes Project

20140815_103722 20140815_103814


I never made yosd clothes ‘seriously’ before. I just made it. Looked ok. and that’s it.

This time, i take it a little bit more seriously in a more simple project. I make long pants for yosd and make sure the fitting is ok. I didn’t mean to make a ‘sexy’ very fit pants. I just want a casual pants, so the yosd will look as ‘young’ sd or as a kid. If you think making this kind of not-too-fit clothes is simple, not for me. It’s not an easy project actually. In my head, clothes must be fit and that thought drives my hand to create pattern. I rarely make a pattern that is a little bit loose (or not too fit). YET. I must say, i’m proud of myself that I managed to make it for this project only in ONE trial. Hahaha…I’m so happy!

The T-shirt is something i want to try as well. I didn’t serge it since i’m afraid, the fabric can be stretched out too much. Yes, I use stretch cotton fabric. There’re some notes I would like to share here:

1. Using zigzag is the best for hemming when you don’t have special machine to sew fabric like this.

2. I tried a sewing feet that was said for sewing this kind of fabric but I don’t feel it’s great in terms of sewing small curves which the doll clothes have.

3. There’s a special needle for that but since the needle is too expensive, i didn’t use it. (^o^)”’. Not, for this one.

4. I didn’t serge it but I trim it with zig-zag scissor.

5. Set the feet pressure not too high so the fabric can pass the feet more smoothly without being too much stretched out.

It’s a bit tricky when sewing this kind of fabric. Trial and error can happen. I did it in 1-2 trials. The good thing about using this fabric is, (may be) we don’t have to make the pattern as a strict good-fit one. It’s ok a bit too small or tight as the fabric will adjust itself to the body due to it’s stretch nature. But again…it’s own preference of how we want the t-shirt look like on the body, YET, in my personal opinion, I don’t take it too ‘strict’ when making the T-shirt pattern. (^_^)d.