While making this yukata, I learned quite a lot, like why the obi ‘should’ be that wide, why the bodice width should consider the shoulder to shoulder length as well as hip, etc.
Hmm. Let’s see where to start. It”s for my own note actually but I want to write it well.
First the width. Shoulder to shoulder measured from the front body should be considered though the measurement may not be used. Just for comparison to the hip round. 1/2 hip should be compared to shoulder to shoulder length (I compared front body, too. I measured it from side to side body, not 1/2 x chest round). I used both as the base for my pattern.
About the obi, imho, obi width should be from the bottom of the chest (right the bottom) up to waist or a bit below waist. The obi width will hide the wrinkle caused by folding the waist part. Should there’s a wrinkle on the back or front, bring it under the arms, pull the folding gently while fixing the obi and the wrinkle should be hidden and pretty unseen. The yukata, then, is neater to look at.
The skirt part shouldn’t be as narrow as my work above. Yet, it is not too vertically straight. It’s just my preference but it looks better than vertically straight. (^o^)”.
I haven’t made the undershirt but it’s actually a must. (^.^)
I am going to revise the pattern as the front part isn’t too wide to the side and the skirt is too narrow, too.
To put yukata and set it on the doll is almost like when we’re doing it on human. It’s just, i’m making it easier. I’m using a stretch to keep the folding part (waist) from moving. I need to fix and set and fix and set the front part until it looks great. Then, I wrap it with obi.
The collar part should have been doubled but I forgot. It’s (may be) to make it looks stiffer.
The finishing should be by hand though I didn’t do it. Hahahaha. It’s a bit difficult with small size so I serged it with small width serging size. Yet, for some parts, I prefer finishing by hand though.
Next to try is making one with lining. I hope, it won’t be too bulky for small size.