Protected: Making Bra: Producing Design 1

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R&D is (temporarily) finished


Finally, arrived at 3 shapes of bra. From here, i will develop more. At least, my theory is correct (and ‘confirmed’ after I read ).

Actually, I always know that doll is resin and human is ‘flesh, thus, the pattern or clothes making sometimes is different but somehow, i forgot that when making bra. I use push up bra or any other modern (but not sport/classic) bra. The bra shapes my bust but in doll bra making, the resin is hard and thus, I don’t need bra to shape the doll’s bust. All I need is to make a bra that looks like it’s shaping the bust (You may want to read the link I gave above. The author seems to have quite the same theory. I feel confident about my theory though after reading that…haha).

What I do first after thinking about theory is to notice more carefully and detail about how bra hang on human body (I wear it every day but I don’t really notice it). I googled a lot of bra picture (as well as look at mine…haha). I noticed how it shaped the bust and how it ‘should’ hang on human body. From there, I revised my previous pattern.

First to notice is on the bottom part (bottom stripe): it should fall slightly under the bust (bottom bust). We can make it wide or not.

Second to that is where the bottom part of the cup should ‘fall’ on the bust. Yes, it can fall on the bottom-bust line too but since I want to make a ‘push-up’ effect, I raised the bottom part a bit. In human bra, we can use rubber as string and belt to push the bra up (by shorten the string); the bust will adjust.  While in doll clothes, even if we use belt, the bust won’t adjust as it’s resin and hard. In this case, we raised the bottom part of the cup to create effect AS IF the bust is ‘raised’ . The length of the string must be correct for the bra to fall on the bust correctly. The author of the link above use rubber lace. It’s auto adjusting then.

So, yes, the pattern revision is to create effect. It was ok but the effect didn’t really show.

Making this bra is ‘simple’ but not simple. Do not underestimate the size and the shape. As the author of the link said, she did math. So did I. Some other people use ‘drapery’ technique by wrapping their doll with papers and then make bra based on that. It can create good accuracy but if I can’t rely it as if I cut it wrong or still not satisfied, I must repeat it over and over again and it’s too fuzzy. I have twins toddler with syndrome. So, that way isn’t my option.

About finishing: I use lining for my doll bra. I put interfacing too on the lining as the lining is thin. Why I didn’t use thicker lining? Because interfacing will give a shape, I need thin lining so it won’t be too bulky if I apply interfacing on it. Interfacing also protects from fraying. Thicker fabrics are still able to fray. If I use interfacing, it can be too bulky.

PS: Sorry i didn’t put the bra on my doll. I want to make it with a better fabric and neater sewing. I havent made the pants. I want to take a picture with proper sewing project

Erasable Pen vs Erasable Spidol

I use erasable pen for sewing doll clothes. It was ok until lately. First when i serge the project with the marking was still there. When i washed it, goodness! It was hard to disappear. Second, today. I used brocade fabric for the clothes. I thought, it would be ok, no problem. All i need was to soak it over night. But today, i found the mark was still there! It is even more difficult to remove. I’m trying special remover now. I used the same pen on cotton. It was ok! .

I think, from now on, i must test the pen even it’s ok on other fabric. I think, for some fabric, i prefer Erasable Spidol though. I think, the ‘water’ is still a lot more than the color liquid. It’s easier to be removed. Oh, there are other kind of erasable/washable marker, a pencil. I think, it’s also easier to be removed. Yet, again, must try it first before trying on a ‘particular’ fabric.

So far, the erasable pen is relatively easy to be removed if i used it on satin-like fabric, cotton, sheer. I haven’t tried it on canvas or medium fabric. I usually prefer spidol over pen when working with thicker fabric.

Crepe Fabric

I tried this fabric lately. This is good. I like the feel and how it falls on doll body. It’s better than chiffon! The edge doesn’t fray easily. I don’t think, i want to serge it when making doll clothes. May be only zigzag shear to make sure it won’t fray at all. Too bad, colors are limited. I wish they are many more colors though. 


Balloon Skirt

balloon skirt


one thing that my teacher didn’t teach me about balloon skirt ‘concept’ (and some other balloon skirts out there i found ) is that balloon means that this skirt must be filled with something so it looks filled or bubble, or blow from inside.

What I used is making inner skirt with ruffle lace (you can use tulle) inside.

1. the bottom: sew ruffled lace 2 layers close each other so it will be stronger to hold the bottom part of the skirt and give the ‘air’ effect on the bottom.

2. middle: no need to sew closely between layers.

3. top: sew ruffled lace 2 layers closed each other so the ballon effect is started at the top of the skirt.


Mystery of Two Pieces (Dress with gathered skirt)

I was wondering why some people made 2 pieces dress (with skirt part is ruffled or gathered). Why not 1 piece? It’s annoying to use it on doll. But since, yesterdays, when i made a dress, i started thinking two pieces dress would be better than one pieces. It may look better on 2 piece rather than 1 piece. The waist part on torso wouldn’t be too bulky. It’s hard to explain because the skirt will be ‘slipped’ under the torso waist. Argument may arise, it is the same. Bulky is still seen. Yet, somehow, I still feel, now, 2 pieces is better than 1 piece.

Another Fabric for Same Design

I tried another fabric for same design today. result? DIFFERENT! May be, it was combo fabric and interfacing. I used not suitable fabric and combined with ‘wrong’ interfacing. Today, I used another cotton fabric. Still thin but not flowing/fall. It’s not easily wrinkle. I also used different interfacing. I used light-stiff interfacing, used for collar. Way better or may be i should say, it’s just normally i used to make.

Good Fabric for Doll? (or No (>3>)””

While ago, i bought a very ‘good’ fabric for doll clothes. At least, i thought SO. The fabric is thin but not sheer, very flowing, color is exactly like i want, and the price is not too expensive. It’s cotton.

I made doll clothes with this fabric 3 times, including latest project. I wasn’t unsure already with this fabric when i worked the first project but i thought, ah, may be coincidence. Yet, on 3rd project, i just O.o. The fabric wasn’t appeared as expected for a gown i made. O.o . It’s EASILY wrinkle! I ironed it again but yet, when i put it on doll body, it was like stretched here and there and caused wrinkle. No, the clothes isn’t too tight. it was even loose when i tried on another body.

Honestly, until now, i’m still unable to guess whether a fabric is good for doll UNTIL i made something with that fabric.


The ‘Key’ in Yukata Project

after sewing ‘lots’ of yukata, i just realized few minutes ago that (one of) the key is on the length. The length must be right so the ‘excess’ on the waist part to be covered by obi won’t leave too much wrinkles. That’s of course, besides the width of the yukata; it is important, too, but i think, the length is same important as the width. I made yukata for about 60cm doll but i made the ‘length’ of yukata 2cm (or more) more than that. I couldn’t understand, why the wrinkles were still a lot while the i’d reduced the width. I then analyzed a bit and got an idea to shorten the length. voila! Wayyyy better. The yukata becomes more manageable easier too.

These are before i cut the length


dont mind abt the obi. hahaha. i just used whatever stripes around my working room. the left batik one is kind of cotton fabric. i think it is parish or rayon. not really thick rayon but thin. i like the fall on the body.

the right one is crepe. it is amazing! this fabric falls better on bjd than satin, chiffon, and thinner satin.

i cant stand to serge the seam though it was an r&d project. XD

Transparent Thread

Transparent thread are made from very thin plastic. I use it sometimes when i want to sew something but I’m not sure what color to use.

The example case is when i want to sew white pearl on black ribbon. If i used black thread, it will be visible on white pearl though a bit. If I used white thread, it will be visible on black ribbon though a bit. Using transparent thread is a good option in this case.

Another example, i saw some ribbons have beads sewn on to. The thread used is transparent. It won’t ‘ruin’  the color of the beads as well as the ribbon itself.