Tips About Quick Pattern Testing

Posted by sukenak on Sunday Nov 18, 2018 Under Personal Study, R&D, Sewing, Study Notes

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R&D : Sewing Ribbon on Collar

Posted by ncr on Thursday Jul 26, 2018 Under R&D

In current project, I am going to R&D sewing ribbon on collar. It is quite challenging for me because the curve side make it difficult for ribbon to follow when is being sewn.

I forgot from where I got the idea but here I am using FABRIC GLUE to attach the ribbon on. It is under process. I have not known if the pen marker can be washed. I have not know if it’s better to sew it. It is a very raw idea under process. I will write more about this later.

The first step was just glue the ribbon then iron it to make the ribbon stay. Do it gradually. Apply glue then iron, apply again and iron again until we finish. It may need some practice to make it perfect.

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Rubber Band (Tape) With Holes

Posted by ncr on Sunday Aug 13, 2017 Under Sewing

Above is the rubber band I mentioned in my previous post. It’s quite common now. Kids’ pants use it a lot.


Please zoom it to see it.

I learned from store pants I bought for kids while ago. The points are:

  1. Make a ‘vertical straight hole’ on the waist band. The height is same as the height/width of the rubber band. Use the ‘making-button-hole’ feature in your sewing machine. Make it 2 holes, right and left. Just estimate yourself how many cm from the middle front.
  2. Cut the rubber the length is from right hole-back waist- left hole  PLUS extra 5-8 cm. You don’t have to pull the rubber when measuring the length.
  3. Slip the rubber into one hole until it goes out on another hole.
  5. Sew the each end of rubber band on the waist band (the extra 5-8cm). I used zig-zag to attached it to the waist band. So, it would be about 5-8cm from the holes. It’s just ‘naturally’ attaching or holding the rubber to the waist band using stitch. Just sew with technique you think it’s neat and better and you can use any stitch you think better though. I set no rule here.
  6. THIS WILL BE THE INNER SIDE of the waist band.

Place a button UNDER the rubber; the position is between the end of the rubber and the hole on the waist you have made on picture no.2. Yes, somewhere under 5-8 cm extra length of rubber
You can place button before inserting the rubber though. Do whatever you feel easier for you to do.

Then, to wear the pants, don’t forget to slip the button into the rubber hole (unless, it fits already or using belt. (^_^) )


The pics are dark since i used notebook camera (T.T) but i hope my notes helps, too. The last pic shows the gathers created by the stretched rubber. The gathers are not a lot because I didn’t really make the waist too big. If I sew the darts and not adding the waist part, it could be fit for my boys. Yet, my boys’ body is hip-less (or waist-less? (^_^)” ), so, it would be better to add belt stripes or using rubber like this. (>_<). I was too lazy to make belt stripes and also, i don’t buy my boys belts. hahaha. I like this rubber (rubber with hole for exactly) style. Well, I can’t say this pants style/design is very formal but sufficient for any occasion for kids. Also, if the rubber has depreciated and not too stretchy anymore, we can still adjust the waist part buy pulling the rubber and hold it with button.


*There is another technique to make pants with rubber more formal style. It’s quite ‘difficult’ though. I think, i post the video here long time ago. Not my video. It’s from youtube. I don’t use the technique here as I don’t want to make formal pants, instead, just a.s.a.p pants.

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Protected: Studi: Doll (Not) Renaissance Corset

Posted by ncr on Wednesday Dec 21, 2016 Under Personal Study

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Using Tricot On Doll Clothes Collar (part 2)

Posted by ncr on Friday Dec 16, 2016 Under Just My Theory

Without my realize, i was working on yosd size. (I thought this was msd size because the height was msd).

The collar looks really good. The tricot theory works well. Anyway, as long as you don’t keep checking the bottom collar like third picture, it won’t be seen bad. It is ok in doll clothes but not in human clothes. It’s another toleration when sewing doll clothes.


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Using Tricot On Doll Clothes Collar

Posted by ncr on Thursday Dec 15, 2016 Under R&D

It’s been a mystery to me how companies can make good collar. There are solution for small size collars:

  1. fabrics.
    1. The fabric must be thin yet not too thin.
    2. Thin is not enough. The fabric must not ‘stiff’. If you think, chiffon is thin and good for doll, no. It’s not always like that.
  2. No use of interfacing.
    1. Interfacing can add thickness. Even if with thin interfacing, still.

With those theory, I still don’t feel satisfied with my doll collar.

One day, i bought esadol school suit/jacket. The collar is very nice and fall on the bodice well. I then started watching the collar. The bottom collar uses very thin kind of fabric. yet, it’s sticky. I didn’t know what it is and how come it was sticky to the top part of collar.

I’m working on a project with collar right now. I was thinking about esadol jacket. I then think, perhaps… TRICOT? (please google: tricot interfacing to get to know what it is). Could it be? I was not sure myself but I did cut tricot as the bottom part of collar instead of same fabric or thinner fabric.

I am processing it so I don’t know the result yet. Wanted to do it this evening but i was afraid, it might take more concentration than usual. I couldn’t do it if my boys are around. If I did a mistake or if the theory is wrong, I might doomed.


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Protected: Study: Collars

Posted by ncr on Wednesday Dec 14, 2016 Under Just My Theory, Personal Study

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(Difficult) Washable Pen

Posted by ncr on Monday Dec 12, 2016 Under Just Things, Sewing

I bought this pen from my seller friend. I thought, it was just like another washable pen I had. Apparently, it is NOT. I used the remover only once on this project and the stains were not disappeared. It was still there. Very hard to be removed. I then had a feeling that this will be very difficult to be removed even with another good stain remover or natural stain remover. Even i used the best detergent before remover to remove the stain. This detergent is one i’ve been using since may be i was in college.  It’s very-very good quality so far. I didn’t want to use another removers as I know it may degrade the color. I just want to use ONE technique at ONCE.  I then remember, a batik artist in my country used  regular spidol to draw the pattern. I asked, will the mark disappear? He said, yes, in the process, it will. He uploaded the picture of batik processing someday and I saw he used hot boiled water. I then used the technique. Instead, I boiled my project, I just poured the hot boiled water into a basin with regular detergent I always use. IT WORKED! Goodness!

It is better to use hot water once rather than using remover over and over. I had experience with using remover more than once on a project. It didn’t work and it ruins the color. Using the hot water, the color will yes, it will slightly degrade but I know my fabric is very good, high quality so  I was confident enough to use hot water. As long as not over and over again. Combining with good detergent really gives good impact to stain.

I want to take the picture of the pen that crafters must avoid but there’s no brand too as I only bought refill and I didn’t have the pen already TAT.

The pen tint is light blue. There’s no other tint color series from this ‘brand’. There are another pen from different brand (I think) with some colours series. That pen is ok. Only the pen with light blue (not marker. Light blue marker is ok).

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Pattern on Fabric

Posted by ncr on Sunday Dec 4, 2016 Under Sewing

My latest project is sewing a kid’s clothes (girl). For charity actually. When I was pinning the fabric, somehow, my mind was drawn into the pattern of the fabric. I then became very observing. I noticed that the pattern which i thought first is like ‘mirror’ (or ‘two direction’ pattern), it wasn’t. It was actually one direction pattern. So, when it’s cut, the seamstress will need more fabric to create a project (so the pattern is ‘correctly’ seen). This fabric is kind of unique as i really thought it’s two direction pattern fabric instead of one.

Other fabric that I noticed is polkadot fabric. It is NOT random or abstract. It is in fact a very arranged pattern. So, if one cut it not straight, it will look odd. It’s especially seen in small project.

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Changing Needle

Posted by ncr on Monday Nov 7, 2016 Under Sewing

Again, i forgot to check my sewing needle. When I sew, seems like the tip is not sharp anymore so it damaged the fabric a little bit. Thank goodness, i had a chance to change it so it wouldn’t give damage any further.

Checking the tip of needle and then changing the needle when it’s not too sharp anymore is important

  1. it eases the sewing. Somehow, the fabric can pass the sewing feet easier if we use the correct and GOOD quality of sewing machine needle.
  2. it also prevent the fabric damage. Blunt needles can damage the fibre like pull it. It leaves the fabric with thin lines on the fabric. The lines are formed because of the fibres that supposed to be on that lines are broken or pulled or damaged. In extreme case, it can create ‘wrinkle’ on the fabric.

Even in case of we are using a very good quality of needle, checking is a must and changing can be necessary. Sometimes, a very good quality needle is not broken or seems still sharp but it is not. It’s hard to detect but we will know the nature of the needle after lots of sewing hours.

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