Pattern, I make them myself!

It’s a short ‘story’ from me.

I make sewing patterns myself, for doll, for bag, for clothes, etc. Unless I stated otherwise, the pattern is original by ME.

I usually take a measurement myself (unless, I used industrial sizing which is usually for ready-to-wear clothes). For dolls, I take measurement one by one and draft a basic pattern for each. From that, I will derive lots of patterns like simple bustier, casual, dress, etc.

I bought some doll clothes book to learn the technique of sewing. I found that sewing doll clothes is NEW and DIFFERENT from what I’d been learning from sewing course. I also notice how other seamstress sew their beautiful clothes. Sometimes I buy one for learning purpose (whatever…I just love their work (>__>)””…).

I always pursue of original pattern of mine. Not in sewing but also crocheting, etc. Books are for reference but I rarely make one from them. I think, lately, I just read them. (^o^)”’. In crafting, I only take one course which is sewing and it’s not enough. I learn from the book as well. In knitting and crocheting, I learn by myself from books and internet. I’m still learning until now and don’t know when will stop. Every project I make leads me to a new learning no matter how simple it is.

Beach Style For My Little Doll

yosd volks basic blouse and pants.

The pants are based on the very basic pattern made by me. For non-stretchy fabric, it’s ok, but I must add some mm if the fabric is not stretchy. The fit is great. Volks Yosd has the smallest size for pants among ae and aidolls. It’s pretty slim. So, if you are going to buy a pants which is pretty fit for Volks Yosd, please consult the seller whether it would fit to another brand.

I like the top. I sew it with different technique I used even on MSD size. It’s great for small size though as long as I sew it right and neat. The waist length blouse is cute that it shows the doll’s belly (>w<)d…

I serged everything though. I don’t think I want to cut zig zag on the seam edge on this project. Besides, this project is serge-able, so, when it’s possible, SERGE IT! (>_<)d.

 

all patterns are made by me from scratch. I measured my doll and made patterns based on that.

 

 

Yukata, A Brief Review and Note

aeyukata unoa faceplate on AE Body. Normal Skin. (I don’t know how but those are ‘whitening’ or ‘lightening’ instead of yellowing. It looks brighter. AE body was pinkish back then)

While making this yukata, I learned quite a lot, like why the obi ‘should’ be that wide, why the bodice width should consider the shoulder to shoulder length as well as hip, etc.

Hmm. Let’s see where to start. It”s for my own note actually but I want to write it well.

First the width. Shoulder to shoulder measured from the front body should be considered though the measurement may not be used. Just for comparison to the hip round. 1/2 hip should be compared to shoulder to shoulder length (I compared front body, too. I measured it from side to side body, not 1/2 x chest round). I used both as the base for my pattern.

About the obi, imho, obi width should be from the bottom of the chest (right the bottom) up to waist or a bit below waist. The obi width will hide the wrinkle caused by folding the waist part. Should there’s a wrinkle on the back or front, bring it under the arms, pull the folding gently while fixing the obi and the wrinkle should be hidden and pretty unseen. The yukata, then, is neater to look at.

The skirt part shouldn’t be as narrow as my work above. Yet, it is not too vertically straight. It’s just my preference but it looks better than vertically straight. (^o^)”.

I haven’t made the undershirt but it’s actually a must. (^.^)

I am going to revise the pattern as the front part isn’t too wide to the side and the skirt is too narrow, too.

To put yukata and set it on the doll is almost like when we’re doing it on human. It’s just, i’m making it easier. I’m using a stretch to keep the folding part (waist) from moving. I need to fix and set and fix and set the front part until it looks great. Then, I wrap it with obi.

The collar part should have been doubled but I forgot. It’s (may be) to make it looks stiffer.

The finishing should be by hand though I didn’t do it. Hahahaha. It’s a bit difficult with small size so I serged it with small width serging size. Yet, for some parts, I prefer finishing by hand though.

Next to try is making one with lining. I hope, it won’t be too bulky for small size.

Zig Zag vs Serge

Inside Look WIP

 

I forgot to give wider seam allowance as I wanted to use the fabric efficiently. Haha. I then realized, oh, boy. So, I tried zig zag. It’s a good chance since i haven’t had a chance to tried zig zag for seam ‘finishing’.

Here are my review:

1. Not all fabrics are suitable for this. Including cotton. I did zigzag but the fabric still frayed.

2. I still prefer serge/overlocking the seam though. Yet, the thickness is something i must handle.

3. May be…maaaay be, I should use special interfacing for some fabric. So, when I cut it zig zag, it’s still safe.

4. I ‘handsew for finishing’ the sleeves hole. May be next time, I just don’t have to serge the hole part, instead, I’ll do handsew for finishing (not for attaching, but finishing the seam edge). And the rest of the seam, I’ll just serge it.

 

It looks ok from outside but pretty dangerous after washing it. The fraying may be inevitable. I’ll just try washing it and then give it a review again.